The first layer is right over much of the plate but wrong in particular places — squashed and translucent in one area, gappy or not sticking in another. The bad areas are in the SAME places every print, whatever you set the offset to.
bent bedwarped bedlow spotfirst layer inconsistentsquish varies across the plateone corner too low
Ordered by how often each is actually responsible, not by how interesting it is. Work down the list.
Do this first: it is the common case and the easy fix. Tram hot, with the mesh disabled, then re-run the mesh. Tilt shows as a gradient — one edge or corner consistently low, the opposite side consistently high.
A mesh makes the Z motor chase the tilt on every move. It works, but it caps your speed and still leaves an uneven first layer. Tram the hardware first, then let the mesh handle what is left.
HOW TO TELL THIS FROM TILT: print a single-layer square covering most of the plate, or use your printer's own bed-level test print. A tilt gives a gradient from one side to the other. A bent plate gives a dish, a bulge or a band — a low patch in the MIDDLE with good edges, or good corners with a bad centre — and no amount of tramming moves it. Re-run the test after tramming: whatever pattern survives is the plate, not the setup. Then lift the sheet and check it is seated flat, and lay it on a known-flat surface to look for a bow. A finer auto-levelling mesh compensates for a mild warp; a bad one wants replacing.
Lift the sheet off entirely and check both faces and the magnet beneath. One crumb of plastic under there raises a very local bump that looks exactly like a warped plate and costs nothing to fix.
If the bad areas MOVE between prints rather than staying put, suspect the probe rather than the plate. Run the mesh twice and compare — a probe giving different answers on the same plate is a wiring or mounting fault.
A blob on the nozzle tip changes the effective offset as it passes. Wipe the nozzle hot before the first layer and see whether the pattern moves.