Wood-filled PLA prints at about 200 °C with a 55 °C bed and 100% part cooling. Usable range 185–220 °C nozzle, 50–65 °C bed. Abrasive — needs a hardened nozzle.
Wood PLATimberfillBamboo PLA
Starting settings
Nozzle
185–220 °C (start 200)
Bed
50–65 °C (start 55)
Part fan
80–100% (start 100%)
Wall speed
20–40 mm/s
Max volumetric flow
7 mm³/s
Shrinkage
0.3%
Softens at
60 °C
Enclosure
Not needed
Nozzle size
0.5 mm or larger — 0.6 mm recommended
Nozzle material
Hardened steel required — this is abrasive
Drying
45 °C for 5 h
Speed
MUCH SLOWER, 20–40 mm/s. Speed means more shear and more heat in the melt zone, which scorches the wood particles and turns them into the blockage everyone blames the filament for.
Bed surface
Smooth or textured PEI at 55 °C. It sticks readily.
Nozzle
A 0.4 mm nozzle WILL clog. Wood particles are large and irregular, and they bridge across the opening. 0.5 mm is the practical minimum, 0.6 mm is the comfortable answer.
What bites people
Print COOLER than plain PLA. Wood particles scorch above roughly 220 °C, and burnt wood in the melt zone is what causes the notorious clogs.
Use a 0.5 mm nozzle or larger. Wood fibres bridge across a 0.4 mm opening and block it.
Do not leave it sitting hot in the nozzle. Between-print dwell at temperature chars the particles.
The colour darkens as temperature rises — some people exploit this deliberately for shading, but it also means an uneven tower looks like a defect when it is not.
Sands and stains like wood, which is the whole point of using it.
Safety
Nozzle runs above 185 °C.
Mildly abrasive. Brass survives longer than with carbon fibre, but hardened steel is the safer choice.