The first layer determines whether the print survives at all. It is also the step people re-tune forever because they never fixed the tram above it.
Phase 0 — Mechanicalabout 20 min
How to do it
Print the first-layer patch and adjust Z live while it runs.
Move the nozzle CLOSER to the bed until the lines merge with no gaps. Which way the number goes to do that differs between printers — the card below records yours.
Stop before the surface goes rough and translucent — that is over-squish, and it causes elephant's foot and parts welded to the plate.
Note the value. Re-check it after any nozzle change or bed swap.
How to read the result
Lines are slightly flattened and fused into a solid sheet with no gaps between them, and the sheet peels off as one piece. Visible gaps mean too high. A rough, translucent, rippled surface means too low.
Redoing this invalidates
Calibration is a chain. Change this and the results below were measured against the old value: