Dial in Z-offset and first-layer squish

The first layer determines whether the print survives at all. It is also the step people re-tune forever because they never fixed the tram above it.

Phase 0 — Mechanicalabout 20 min

How to do it

  1. Print the first-layer patch and adjust Z live while it runs.
  2. Move the nozzle CLOSER to the bed until the lines merge with no gaps. Which way the number goes to do that differs between printers — the card below records yours.
  3. Stop before the surface goes rough and translucent — that is over-squish, and it causes elephant's foot and parts welded to the plate.
  4. Note the value. Re-check it after any nozzle change or bed swap.

How to read the result

Lines are slightly flattened and fused into a solid sheet with no gaps between them, and the sheet peels off as one piece. Visible gaps mean too high. A rough, translucent, rippled surface means too low.

Redoing this invalidates

Calibration is a chain. Change this and the results below were measured against the old value:

Open First Layer →
The app walks this in order, generates the test model for your nozzle and filament, and records what you measure so nothing has to be repeated. Free, no account, works offline.